The instructions below were presented by Austin Hoke on the HYBRID Z Forum.
Austin went to great detail in explaining how he installed out ZG Flares on his Z. We have seen the flares installed in several ways, but this is probably most labor intensive, but best, way to do the job.

 

To start with, regardless of weather or not the flares are bolt on, doing this is NOT for the faint of heart.  IF you are actually going to use the flares they was they were intended get ready to cut some metal!!!!

Materials:
- 24  Allen button head bolts (I used stainless 1/4")
- 24  AN SS washers
- 12  1/4" Nut inserts
- 12  SS 1/4" nuts washers and lock washers
- Rubber welting
- Stain black spray paint
- Seam sealer and undercoating
- 3M BLUE painters tape

The first order of business is to mark the holes on your ZG's for where you want the bolts, try and get them as centered as possible and then drill them out to 1/4"

Once this is done I started off by laying down generous amounts of painters tape around my fender where the flare is to go. I would like to stress using 3m blue painters tape. Yes is god awful expensive but it wont pull your paint off!!!! Trust me I've had it happen. Once the tape is down test fit the flare. I choose to line the rear flares up with my stock lips, a little tape and some clamps will help you hold it in place....



Once you have the flare how you want it mark the outside edge with a permanent marker along with all the holes. Double check all this! Now remove the flare and mark a second line 1" below the line for the edge of the flare.

This picture doesn't show the second sharpie line but you get the point:


Get out your grinder or weapon of choice and prepare for war
I used my trusty 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel, I'm sure a nifty air nibbler or something would work well. But I like sparks.

PROTECT YOUR PAINT towels or something...

Start off by cutting the OUTER fender along the lower sharpie marker line. VERY IMPORTANT don't cut all the way through. Once you have cut the out fender use some pliers and peal it back to expose the inner fender. Now cut the inner fender leaving a little lip... It should looks something like this....

(oh and a side note, watch for wires in the passenger side fender lips, the rear harness runs through there.)



As you see you'll probably find some nice rust inside here, hey what a surprise its a Z car! Next order of business is drilling out the hole you marked.. you may want to test fit the flare again to double check them. Once you've double checked drill them out to 3/8" if you are using nut inserts like me. Once this is don't you can remove the tape and go ahead and hammer in the nut inserts. Be careful that you don't warp the fenders! I choose to grind out a little bit around the nut insert to allow me to tack weld them in place. Don't want them spinning free. SO this is what ya got...



Next we gotta reattach the out and inner fender to repair the unibody. You basically have to hammer the inner fender out to make a new lip. Start by creasing it a little with pliers (if you don't you'll never get it to bend it will just flex, I found this out)...



Next hammer the inner fender up to meet the outer fender. It helps to go little by little tack welding as you go...



When your done you should have a pretty nice lip there that wont cut your tire if you ever got up into this area. GO slow and make lots of tack/stitch welds along the fender. Here is a picture just after I got done making the lip.. its not fully welded yet. Just make sure you go slow don't burn the paint or warp the metal!



Once your done welding apply a generous amount of seam sealer, tape everything off again and apply some paint/undercoating to finish the lip up! I neglected to take pictures of mine. But you get the idea.


Once the rears are complete the fronts are a piece of cake. I would bore you with details so here are a few pictures. I will say that I had to mount the flare a little higher then the stock lip to get adequate clearance on the tire and to provide enough travel. Use nuts and washers to secure the front flare since you can get to the back...







Next order of business is painting the flares, and mounting them up. I sanded with with 400 grit then 600 grit and laid a nice layer of satin black on them (yes spray paint )

Many people suggested running rubber welting on the flares, and It really adds a finished look to them. It will also hide any gap you have between the flare and the body. I found some nice rubber welting through Steele Rubber Products. It came in 8 foot rolls which is perfect since each flare takes almost 4' exactly.

Start by cutting the welting in half length wise with a razor blade. This makes it about one inch wide which is just perfect. I then laid it along the flare and used a sharpie to make the holes and the length (metallic sharpies work awesome) Then cut out little semicircles where you marked the holes. This will allow you to push the welting in after you loosely bolt up the flares.

The welting:


Heres a finished welting strip:


Okay bolt everything up!!!

Here's how mine came out, I am very happy with the results...



Good job, Austin!